We will start our wheel assembly
instructions by reviewing the assembly of the sections of sails, sail ribs and inner and
outer wheel bands.
WHEEL SAIL SECTION ASSEMBLY
| Slide a sail rib (#101) over the small end of the
sail toward the large end until it fits into the rectangular hole in the sail (#100), as
indicated in the drawing. Repeat this process for all 18 sails.
Lay three sails in position as shown in drawing. Connect the
inner band (#35) to the sail tab with bolts and lock nuts. Do not tighten the lock nuts
yet. Note the distance that should extend in dimension 2 table.
Slide the outer band (#34) through the rectangular hole in the
sails until bolt holes of outer band match the bolt holes in the sail ribs. Dimension 1
indicates the correct measurement when #34 is installed correctly.
Tighten all lock nuts in wheel section and repeat this procedure
until all 6 sections are completed.
|#799 Complete Wheel Check list
|Sail Ribs #101
|Outer Bands #34
|Inner Bands #35
|Wheel Arms w/nuts #736
|Bolts for sails
|Lock nuts for sails
|MEASUREMENTS ON #34 & #35
Note that dimension 1
relates to distance between sail rib bolt hole and the first of two holes on the end of
the #34 outer wheel band. Dimension 2 refers to the distance from the sail tie to
the end hole on the #35 inner wheel band. These are taken with sails laying down and
measure on left.
the 12 wheel arms into the hub assembly of the crated motor. The end of the #736 wheel
arms with the square head screws into the hub. Use a wrench with smooth jaws to tighten
them into the hub. Never use a pipe wrench, as it will ruin the galvanized coating and
make the arms subject to rust. Stop the first arm of each pair 1/4 turn from tight, so
it will not interfere with the installation of the second arm. Then after the second arm
is tight, tighten the first arm so that the tabs are parallel to each other so the offset
ends are aligned to receive the inner wheel band.
The outer ends of the wheel arms will all stand straight out and
in line, allowing them to slip through the holes in the outer wheel bands without bending.
Do not try to spring the arms out of their normal position when putting on the wheel
sections. The arms cross at the inner band and the cross ties stand at right angles to the
band so they cross the inner band. If the inner bands do not fit into the depressed area
of the arm crosses, you have not turned the arms to the right position, or you have an arm
in with the wrong end screwed into the hub. It is important for them to be in right
so the wheel can run true. Do not attempt to bend these arms or the threaded section.
Be sure to follow these instructions completely. With a pair of
wheel arms mounted in the front holes of the hub facing down, place a section on so the
ENDS OF THE WHEEL ARMS FROM THE FRONT OF THE HUB GO THRU THE OUTER HOLES OF THE SECTION. Rotate the wheel to the
left, and place a section onto the arms mounted in the rear holes of the hub. The wheel
arms for this section will go through the outer holes of this section. The third section
will go on the arms that are from the front holes on the hub. BE SURE YOU ONLY PLACE THE
NUT ON 2 TO 3 THREADS AS YOU INSTALL SECTIONS. IF YOU TIGHTEN THEM UP TOO MUCH, THE LAST
SECTION WILL NOT FIT.
Rotate the 3 assembled sections to the top so they will balance,
and install the 4th section which goes on the arms from the back holes of the hub. Rotate
again to install the fifth section onto the front holes of the hub.
When you put the sixth and last section in place, the point where
the first section meets the sixth requires you to temperarily remove the outer end of the
first band and place the end of the sixth section band on first. Then replace the first
section band so each joint is assembled with the same lap. VERY IMPORTANT THAT YOU NOT
PLACE THE LAST SECTION OVER THE OUTSIDE OF THE FIRST SECTION END. IT WOULD CAUSE YOUR
WHEEL TO NOT BE TRUE.
After all six wheel sections have been assembled to wheel arms
and all the inner bands are bolted together, you will start to tighten each set of nuts on
the outer bands a couple turns at a time. Then rotate the wheel and tighten the next set a
couple turns. Continue this until all the nuts are tightened fully. The Aermotor windmill
wheel is a tension type wheel and when it is properly assembled, it forms a very rigid and
strong wheel of high efficiency and strength.
Now it is time to fill the gear case with oil. Remove the helmet and
put in the proper amount of oil. The ( X ) 6' mill requires 1 quart, ( A ) 8' requires 2
quarts as does the ( B ) 10' mill. The 12' ( D ) requires 4 quarts, the 14' ( E ) requires
8 quarts, as does the 16' ( F ) size mill. This will be enough oil to properly lubricate
the mill for a year. It is recommended that a NON-DETERGENT - ZERO WEIGHT OIL BE USED. It
will flow freely to all areas needing oiled and will remain fluid in cold weather.
Replace the helmet and be sure it is fully seated. The inner
flange should be inside the gear case casting to assure that the oil does not splash out.
Install the nut to hold the helmet in place and keep rain out.
| The pump pole is made of wood
approximately 14' long. Being of wood, if something gets hung up or catches, the wood pole
will break instead of breaking something in the gear case. It is your safety link. DO
NOT TRY TO ELIMINATE IT AND PUT A CHAIN IN ITS PLACE. The cost of the damage possible
will outweigh the inconvenience of replacing a broken wood pole if necessary.
Connect the wood pole to the #171 pump rod swivel. Turn your
wheel until the pump pole is at its lowest point of the stroke. Screw the #62 rod to pump
pole connector onto the rod, and pull the rod up about 2" and connect the #62 to the
wood pole. This will prevent the plunger from hitting the bottom check of the cylinder.
Turn the wheel completely around to be sure it also does not hit at the top, and that
there will be no problem with the mill stroke length in reference to the cylinder stroke
Stroke length change.
The mill is assembled using the long stroke at the factory. The
capacity tables are all based on the long stroke. Changing to the short stroke will
decrease the capacity of water pumped by about 25%. It will allow you to pump a little
deeper than the chart says for the cylinder size with your size mill.
To change your Aermotor windmill to the short stroke, turn the
large gears until the pitmans are at the bottom of the stroke. You may need to place a
piece of wood under the edge of the #608 yoke to support the weight on the pump rod. A
piece of wood the thickness of the pump pole is about right.
Remove the cotter pin at one end of the #522 shaft that goes
through the guide wheel. Push it out of the pitman arm, yoke and guide wheel. Turn the
large gears until the lower ends of the pitman arms are above the rim of the gear case.
Remove the cotter pins and #622 bolts, and remove the pitmans from the gears. Turn the
large gears about 1/2 turn, until the other set of pitman bosses on the large gears is
above the rim of the case. These are the bosses that are closest to the center of the
gear. Place the pitman arms onto the short stroke bosses, and reinstall the #622 bolt and
cotter keys that held the pitmans to the long stroke bosses earlier.
Rotate the gears until the pitmans are near the bottom of the
stroke and again use the piece of wood to support the base of the #608. Replace the #522
shaft through the LOWER HOLES IN THE UPPER ENDS OF BOTH PITMAN ARMS, the yoke and the
guide wheel and insert the cotter key that goes into the end of the #522. After changing
the stroke, be sure the oil ring #507 rolls on the large gear at the bottom of the stroke.
Turn the wheel to be sure everything is operating freely before replacing the helmet on
the gear case and returning the mill to service.
When changing the stroke, BOTH ends of the pitman arms will
change location. The short stroke requires the large end to be on the inner most boss on
the large gear, and the inside hole on the opposite end to be connected to the #522 shaft.
Aermotor windmills are the ideal livestock water source for cattle
and sheep, whether on the open range or ranch pasture. We offer the largest selection of
windmills for stock watering (domestic Aermotor windmills, imported Fiasa windmills, and
factory reconditioned used Aermotor windmills ) as well as repair parts to keep your
present windmills operating efficiently. For over 35 years we have provided windmills,
windmill towers, sucker rod, cylinders, cup leathers, and other windmill supplies to
enable ranchers to use wind power to pump water. Windmills allowed the settlement of the
old American west and still offer an alternative energy source just as efficient and
reliable as when first used in the early 1800's.