| AERMOTOR WINDMILL CARE & REPAIR |
DEAN BENNETT SUPPLY CO |
Under normal conditions your Aermotor windmill should only require the oil to be changed once a year. To do so, remove the plug at the bottom of the gear case and drain the old oil out. Be sure to catch the oil so it doesn't get on the platform or tower which would make them slippery and dangerous. Flush the case with kerosene to remove dirt and debris. Also remove the plug from the hub and flush the passage with kerosene. Replace the plugs and refill the gear case with the proper amount of windmill oil, based on the size mill you are servicing. BE SURE NO OIL GETS INTO YOUR WELL. |
| PROPER
QUANTITY OF OIL 6' Aermotor = 1 Quart 8' Aermotor = 2 Quarts 10' Aermotor = 2 Quarts 12' Aermotor = 4 Quarts 14' Aermotor = 8 Quarts 16' Aermotor = 8 Quarts Using more than the above quantities is of no advantage. Too much oil may overflow at the wheel hub. Do not use heavy oil as it may clog oil pass- ages, causing extra wear on certain parts. The proper oil is non-detergent less than 10 weight. When changing oil check to be sure the oil ring is rotating on the large gear when at the bottom of the stroke. The ring carries oil to the shaft for the pitman arms and guide wheel. Oil the turntable through hole at the top of the post where it comes through the crated motor case. Also oil the furl ring through the fitting on the ring. With this little bit of attention once a year, your Aermotor should last you many years. |
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REPLACING THE #703 HUB & SHAFT The hub and shaft are supplied as a unit, with the shaft welded into the hub for an assured tight fit. The shaft is not sold separately. The wheel sections and wheel arms will need to be removed to change out the hub and shaft #703. This can be done at the top of the tower, or if you have the equipment, it will be easier if it is lowered from the tower to the ground to do the service. Remove the pipe plug in the side of the hub. |
| With the hole for the pipe plug positioned straight
up, insert a screw driver into the slot of the #520 oil collector and remove it. You must
remove the #520 before you can remove the shaft. Next, remove the pipe plug on the back
side of the gear case. Remove the #522 shaft that goes through the guide wheel and remove
the large gear assembly with the pitman arms from the gear case. This will make it easier
to get to the small gears on the shaft. Remove the pin #729, that holds the end pinion gear on the shaft and holds the #744 key that locks the positioning of the small gears, from the end of the shaft. Be sure the keyway on the shaft is straight down. There is a notch in the #718 spout washer that will allow the #744 key to pass through it. If the key is not straight down, you will most likely break the #718 when the shaft is pushed out. As you push the shaft out, you will remove the #704, the #708/808, the other #704, the #718, the #517 spring and the #730/830 shaft bearing from the shaft, along with the #744 key. Examine each piece for wear and if necessary replace the parts. The gears should always be replaced in pairs. This eliminates the possibility of uneven drive pressure that would cause binding or uneven wear in the remaining parts of the mill. |
REASSEMBLE the HUB & SHAFT by inserting the #708/808 bearing into the main casting, with the #704 small gears in it. Put the #730/830 sleeve bearing into place. Oil the bearing and the shaft and insert the shaft through to the inner edge of the case. Place the 517 spring and the 718 spout washer over the end of the small gears and bearing group and slide the shaft through the grouping. When the shaft is all the way through, rotate the #704 small gears so the slot for the key is down, along with the slot in the hub shaft. Insert the key and then the retainer pin #729 in the end of the shaft. Install a new #520 oil collector through the plug hole in the hub and tighten. IT IS IMPORTANT TO SEAT THE OIL COLLECTOR BY SLOWLY TURNING THE WHEEL. IT MUST RUB THE INSIDE OF THE HUB IN ORDER TO PICK UP OIL AND RETURN IT TO THE GEAR CASE. Now put the large gear assembly back into place and secure it with the #751 bearing bar. Reconnect the pitman arms #686 to the outer boss on the gears and secure them with the #622 bolt. Place the 522 shaft through the #608 yoke and the #523 guide wheel. Place the outer most hole of the pitman arms on the 522 shaft and secure it with the cotter pins. Reinstall the plugs in the hub and the back side of the case. |
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| Replacing the #752/852 Bearing between the large gears.
Remove the large gear assembly from the case. Remove the pitman arms, the 721 pin from the
720 shaft. Remove one of the #705 large gears and slide off the bearing. Examine the 720
shaft for wear and replace if necessary. Reassemble by putting the bearing onto the 720 shaft followed by the large gear. Be sure the pitman boss on the gear is in the same position as on the other gear. If it is not it will cause binding or breakage. Replaceing the #523 Guide Wheel. Remove the large gear assembly. Mark the #508 pitman guide so it gets put back in correctly. Otherwise the 588 stud will be out of location and the 560 helmet will not fit correctly. Remove the 508R pins from the bottom of the 508, that secure it to the case. Replace the #523 guide wheel in the same direction as the one you remove. Be sure to examine the 507 oil ring to see that it is not bent or damaged. |
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Mill jerks while operating. Mill knocks at bottom of stroke. Pitman arms keep breaking. Oil leaking down mast pipe. Oil leaking around hub and onto the wheel. |
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